Three Brush Makeup Challenge

The brushes I decided to use for this look are; foundation brush, blusher and angled brush.

I chose the foundation brush to apply the base. The blusher brush I used to apply blush and a bit of contouring and highlighting and the angled brush on the brows, eyes and lips. 

Charles Fox brushes that I used

 Final look on myself

Evaluation Of The Project

This was our first assessment. The brief was very clear and I had no trouble with understanding what I had to do for this project. Also, starting a blog was very new to me and I was a bit scared. Regardless, I tryed to post everything on time, and soon blogging became a part of my everyday life and I love it. 

By taking elements from the Elizabethan era and adding contemporary ones, we had to create our New Elizabethan. There are a lot of New Elizabethans these days. I chose Rihanna, based on her style and the way she dresses. Through the films about Queen Elizabeth I and all the research, I've really learned a lot. It made me realize how much influence that era had on everyone and it is still around us in so many different ways. 

I've had many ideas for my design but wasn't sure how to combine everything into my final look. Many face charts and a lot of practice later, I've came up with my final make up design. It is a 'Queen Elizabeth meets Rihanna' inspired look; pale face and purple lips.50 Even though it is a very simple look, I really like it. I think that my partner, Greta, did a good job and I'm very happy with the final outcome. I gave her my face chart, notes and a list of products and we practiced a lot. She did the same for me, and I think we were a good team. I definitely wouldn't mind working with her again in the future. 

Final Assessment - In The Role Of The Designer + Peer Evaluation

I never knew you could actually use make up on paper. I found creating face charts very fun, but it takes me a while to create one. For this project I've made quite a few, and it took me a long time until I came up with the look that I loved. I was experimenting with different colours and shapes. My final design is a 'Queen Elizabeth meets Rihanna' inspired look. A quite simple design with purple lips and pale face.

I gave my face chart to my partner right after I've created it and she practiced a few times before the assessment. She has experience it make up and I don't think this was difficult for her at all. The only thing she might have struggled with was making the cheeks even and round. On day of the assessment she was fully prepared. She had the notes that I've given her, all the products that she needed and managed to complete the look on time. I like the final outcome and it is exactly how I wanted it to look. However, symmetry is something that she has still to work on, just like me.

 Side

Front

Final Assessment - In The Role Of The MUA + Peer Evaluation

This was my first timed assessment. I was nervous, but prepared. I had all the notes and products that I needed as well as the face chart. Each time I practiced this look I asked my partner, Greta, if it looks good, should I put more/less product etc. She wrote down all the notes so I know in what order to do the make up, and gave me the false lashes and foundation she wanted me to use. 

The assessment went well, I've done the look just on time. I am quite happy with the outcome. I've done art before, and don't have a lot of experience as a MUA, but I did my best. I could see straight after I took the photos the areas I need improve on. My base is blended into the hairline nicely. One eyebrow has more product than other one. Also, I need to work on my blush application. I think I've done a good with the eyes and the false lashes, but one lash is more red. I think I wouldn't spent as much time as I did on the lips if I used a lip pencil.

Greta was a really good partner and designer. She was always in the lessons, and we stayed in the studio to practice. Her face chart and notes were very clear and I think we were a great team. 

 Final look 

(Nov 26th 2014)

 Final look 

(Nov 26th 2014)

The face chart and list of products 

(Nov 26th 2014)

The notes

(Nov 26th 2014)

Practice For The Final Assessment

My partner for this assessmet, Greta, gave me the face chart with her design and I tried to create her look on her. Her New Elizabethan is Lady Gaga, which I could see straight away when I saw the face chart..

Greta's Face Chart

Products used to create her look: 

Base: Make Up Forever Velvet Foundation + Primer + Loose powder (Illamasqua)

Contouring: 101 (Blusher Palette by Kryolan)

Eyebrows: 101 

Eyeliner: Black Pepper (Kryolan)

Cheeks: TO + Youth Red (Blusher Palette by Kryolan)

Lips: Gold (Supracolor)

Face Painting: Black + Gold (Supracolor) 

Final look

Model: Greta 

(Nov 17th 2014)

 Final look

Model: Greta 

(Nov 17th 2014)

The reason why I didn't finish the eye makeup is that I didn't have enough time. This look takes a lot of time to create and it was quite hard for me to do it in the time that we will be getting in out timed assessment. Greta told me she would make a few changes so that I can get the look done on time.

Kat's told me to try to apply the foundation on the lips before the Supracolor Gold, because the application would be easyer. Also she mentioned that I should use a thinner brush to draw the lines, but unfortunately the brush I used was the only one I had so I tryed to improvise. 

In Sue's lesson she gave me a new face chart with a complete different look. 

Greta's face chart 

Products used to create her look: 

Base: Make Up Forever Foundation + Primer + Loose powder (Illamasqua)

Eyebrows: Black Pepper (Kryolan)

Eyeliner: Gold (Supracolor by Kryolan) + white pencil (along the water line)

Eyeshadow: Fennel (Kryolan)

Cheeks: TO + Youth Red (Blusher Palette by Kryolan)

Lips: Gold (Supracolor) + Red Lipmix + Matte Mixing Medium (MAC) 

Top Lashes: Red (Supracolor) + False white lashes

Bottom Lashes: white mascara

Practice in Sue's lesson

(Nov 19th 2014)

This is a look that I was much more confident doing. The cheeks are something that I need to work on perfecting and making them even.

I did the same look in Sharon's lesson next week, day before the assessment. I didn't use the false lashes just because we have already used them once and I didn't want them to be ruined of full of glue in the timed assessment. 

Have to work more on the base and cheeks!

 Practice in Sharon's lesson 

(Nov 25th 2014)

Practice in Sharon's lesson 

(Nov 25th 2014)

Elizabeth: The Golden Age

Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007) is a film directed by Shekhar Kapur and written by William Nicholson  and Michael Hirst. Cate Blanchett plays Elizabeth.
I absolutely love the hair and makeup in this film, but that is something that I covered in one of my older posts. This post is about how the film is connected to my New Elizabethan in terms of fashion and styling. And of course, it's the huge sleeves. The sleeves were not only worn by Elizabeth, but other actresses too, because they were part of the fashion back then. But after comparing the images from the film and Rihanna's, I realized that Rihanna wears bigger sleeves! This is not a surprize since we all know how much she likes to experiment, have fun with her outfits and take fashion to the extreme. 

Cate Blanchett as Queen Elizabeth

image from the film

(2007)

(source: http://diletant.ru/articles/4938339/?sphrase_id=1068889 -date: Nov 22nd 2014)

Image from the film

(2007)

(source: http://www.imagozone.com/filme/Elizabeth-The-Golden-Age/Elizabeth-The-Golden-Age-023?size=full - date: Nov 20th 2014)

Rihanna (2009)
Photographer: Janet Mayer

(source: http://fametastic.co.uk/archive/20090505/16282/photos-rihanna-at-the-costume-institute-gala-2009/ -date Nov 9th 2014)

Rihanna at 2010 ECHO Awards at the Palais am Funkturm in Berlin, Germany

Photographer: Andreas Rentz

(March 4th 2010)

http://www.thegloss.com/2014/05/15/fashion/rihanna-makes-fun-prombat-prom-dress-alexis-carter/ -date: Nov 25th)

http://www.rap-up.com/2010/03/04/rihanna-arrives-at-echo-awards-sets-billboard-record/ (date: Nov 25th 2014)

Creating My Final Contemporary Elizabethan Makeup Look

Since I decided to use gold in my final design because it is a royal colour, I tryed to create one more face chart with a gold and red lip... 

Products used:
Contouring + Eyeshadow: Bronzing Sun by Kryolan
Blush: 665 G by Kryolan
Lashes: black mascara (left) white mascara (right)
Eyeliner: Supracolor Gold by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Black Pepper + Supracolor Gold by Kryolan
Lips: Gold (top lip line) + 081 Supracolor 

 Face chart

(Nov 22nd 2014)

Purple Lips

While going through Rihannas photos, I noticed that purple is also a colour she loves to wear on her lips. Here are images of her wearing purple lipstick at the Paris Fashion Week (2009). 

Rihanna at Paris Fashion week

(2009)

(souce: http://www.omowrites.com/2009/10/02/trend-report-electric-purple-lips/ - found on Nov 22nd 2014)

I placed a purple lip chart over the red lips in the face chart above to see if it could work and what changes could I make to create a look with purple lips. 

Purple lips face chart

(Nov 22nd 2014)

This is the face chart that I created and took to our lesson where my partner practiced the look on me. 

Elizabethan elements: pale face, rosy cheeks

Contemporary elements: eyebrows and eye makeup, purple lips

Products used: 

Base: Alabaster (Kryolan) + Illamasqua Skin Base White + Loose Powder

Cheeks: 665 G + Youth Red (Blusher Palette by Kryolan)

Lips: Purple/Lila + Gold (Supracolor by Kryolan)

Eyebrows: Black Pepper (Kryolan) 

Eyes: 665 G + Gold ( in the inner corners) + dark brown mascara
                                

(Nov 22nd 2014)

When my partner, Greta, started doing my makeup in the lesson, I made two very little changes in the look. I decided to add some purple eyeshadow in the shade Shallot, by Kryolan, with Black Pepper on the eyebrows and went with gold only on the bottom lip, it was too much if I kept it on the top one too I think. 

And finally, I created my final look for my first timed assessment. It took me a long time but here is the final face chart that I gave to my partner and the look she created in that lesson. 

Products used: 

Base: Alabaster (Kryolan) + Illamasqua Skin Base White + Loose Powder

Cheeks: 665 G + Youth Red (Blusher Palette by Kryolan)

Lips: Purple/Lila + Gold (Supracolor by Kryolan)

Eyebrows: Shallot (Kryolan) 

Eyes: 665 G + Gold ( in the inner corners) + dark brown mascara

Final look face chart

(Nov 24th 2014)

Pracice look

(Nov 24th 2014)

Queen Elizabeth Meets Rihanna - More Research

After Kat's feedback, I started going through Rihanna's photos to see what other elements I could use in my design. Red is a colour Rihanna wears on her lips quite often, just like Elizabeth used to, but I wanted to change it up a bit. I found images of Rihanna wearing very nice brown and nude shades of lipstick. Also, I really like the neutral shades of eyeshadows that she uses and that is also someting that I would like to try to maybe use for my final design.

Launch of Rihanna's River Island collection

Oxford Street Rivel Island store, London

photographer: Stuart Wilson

(March 3rd 2013)

(source: www.stylebistro.com/lookbook/Rihanna/pJfYG5yo2rP/Beauty/angle/Lz-9wFPx_4 - found on:Nov 14th 2014)

At the Gucci and Rocnation Private Pre Grammy Brunch 

Soho House, L.A, California

(February 12th 2011)

(source: http://stealherstyle.net/rihanna/?post_type=makeup - found on: Nov 14th 2014)

After this research I started thinking how can incorporate brown shades on both lips and eyes into my desing. I've come up with two looks where I actually used the same products on the eyes and lips - the Illamasqua eyeshadows. 

Look no.1
Elizabethan elements: pale face, rosy cheeks
Contemporary elements: contouring, brown/gold lips and eyes, lashes, eyebrows 

Products used to achieve this look: 
Foundation: Alabaster (UltraFoundation by Kryolan)
Contouring: Bronzing Sun (Glamour Glow Palette by Kryolan) 
Lips & Eyes: Precipice; inner corners + Graphica; outer corners lips (Illamasqua Reflection Palette)
Cheeks on the face chart: Lover (Illamasqua) 
Cheeks in the selfie: R 21 (Blusher Palette Matt by Kryolan)
Eyebrows: Black Pepper (Viva Brilliant Color Madley Matt Sun by Kryolan)

I used a different colour for the blusher than in the face chart because the Lover shade was not as bright on my skin as it was on the face chart. I wanted to put more colour on my cheeks since the rest of the face is quite neutral.

Face Chart

(Nov 14 2014)

Practicing - Selfie

(Nov 14 2014)

Look no.2

Elizabethan elements: pale skin and rosy cheeks

Contemporary elements: contouring around the forehead, brown/gold lips and eyes, lashes, eyebrows 

Products used to achieve this look:

Foundation: Alabaster (UltraFoundation by Kryolan)
Contouring: Bronzing Agais (Glamour Glow Palette by Kryolan) 
Lips & Eyes: Precipice; inner corners and top lip + Acute; outer corners and bottom lip (Illamasqua Reflection Palette)
Cheeks: TO (Blusher palette -5 MATT  by Kryolan) 
Eyebrows: Black Pepper (Viva Brilliant Color Madley Matt Sun by Kryolan)

Face Chart
(Nov 14 2014)

The look my partner created 

(Nov 19th 2014)

I liked this look but felt like there was something missing. Sue said that it looks very nice, but that it is not Elizabethan enough, she said to think outside the box and maybe use warmer colours. 

Mixing and Matching
Instead of making one face chart at a time, and then having one thing that I don't like about it and then making a new one, I decided to play a little bit. First I drew lips, 10 different ones, on one paper and faces on the other one. 

For the lips I've used mostly colours from the Supracolor Palette by Kryolan and on the eyes and cheeks Kryolan's Blusher Palette. The eyes and cheeks, you can see, don't really match on each side of the face, but they weren't meant to, I was just testing different colours. 
On the 1st face (left to right) I used the shades 665G, Youth Red from the Blusher palette by Kryolan, on both eye and cheeks. On the 2nd eye I used 665G and 101 and on the cheek 665, Youth Red + TO. The shade I used as eyeshadow on the 3rd eye was R21 and I used Purple/Lila colour from the Supracolor palette as eyeliner. On the cheeks I used Illamasqua's cream blush in the shade Libido and mixed it with a little bit of Supracolor Gold, but I don't really like the final resault.

 Lips

(Nov 21st 2014)

Faces
(Nov 21st 2014)

First, I tried to see if red lips would match any of the looks. Left lip is the Supracolor 081 (dark red) mixed with a bit of Gold. I used 079 and Gold on the right lip, with Purple/Lila in the middle of the lips. 

Also, I tested both colours on my lips, as you can see in the images below...

(Nov 21st 2014)

081 + Gold, Supracolor
(Nov 21st 2014) 

The two lip charts up close

(Nov 21st 2014)

079 + Purple, no Gold

(Nov 21st 2014)

Here I used the shades LC009 on the left and LC010 on the right lip, both from the Lip Rouge Palette by Kryolan and mixed both with Supracolor 070 (white). The left lip is simple dark red and on the right one I drew a heart shape in the middle of the lip.

(Nov 21st 2014)

...and here I used Red and Gold from the Supracolor palette. 

(Nov 21st 2014)

Lastly, this is one of the lip charts I've made. The colour around the lip is foundation in the shade Alabaster by Kryolan, and I used it to see how the Gold (Supracolor) looks like, because there is a difference between a white background and what it actually looks on the lips and my skin tone. Then I tested what it looks like on my lips with and without the black lip line and I blended it so it is not as dark. I think it looks better with a lip line, because it gives the lip a bit of depth.

Lip chart

(Nov 21st 2014)

Without the lip line

(Nov 21st 2014)

 Without the lip line

(Nov 21st 2014)

I've spent a lot of time to create these face charts but still I don't think I like any of them. I will definitely use gold in further research because it is a royal colour and it can make the simplest look very Elizabethan, but no, I wouldn't use any of these looks as my final design.

Queen Elizabeth Meets Rihanna - Red Lips & Pale Face

Since our first assessment was to create a New Elizabethan, and I chose Rihanna as my new elizabethan, my final makeup desing is going to be a mixture between Queen Elizabeth I and Rihanna's makeup. 
The portrait that I analysed in one of my first posts is the "Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I"; oil on canvas (c. 1592) by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. That is the portrait that I chose to be my inspiration; the elements that I will use for my contemporary look are the pale skin and rosy cheeks

Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I

(source: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Marcus_Gheeraerts_(II)_-_Portrait_of_Queen_Elisabeth_I_-_WGA08657.jpg - date: Oct 10th 2014 )

Just like Queen Elizabeth, Rihanna loves her red lipstick. As a matter of fact, she has released two shades of her VIVA GLAM Lipstick, by MAC; one is actually called RiRi Woo and it is a similar shade to their famous Ruby Woo lipstick.
Here is an image of her rocking the red lip at the premiere of Battleship in LA (May 10th 2012)

(source: http://www.popsugar.com/celebrity/photo-gallery/23052989/image/23053026/Rihanna-wore-bright-red-lips-white-dress-premiere - date: Nov 19th 2014)

So far I've came up with a few different looks. The key elizabethan elements in these are the red lips and pale skin. The foundation I would to use for every look is in the shade Alabaster from the Ultrafoundation Palette, Trafalgar Light by Kryolan with Illamasqua Loose Powder on top.

Look no.1
Elizabethan elements: red lips and pale skin
Contemporary elements: contoured face, eyebrows and eyeshadow + lashes

Products used to achieve this look:
Contouring - Natural Tan + Pale tan (Glamour Glow Essence by Kryolan)
Cheeks - Blush Mauve (Glamour Glow Essence by Kryolan)
Lips  - LC005 + LC008 (Lip Rouge Mini Palette LMP101 by Kryolan) + Loose Powder
Eyes - Precipice, in the inner corners + Graphica, in the outer corners (Illamasqua Reflection Palette) + black mascara
Eyebrows - Caraway (Viva Brilliant Color Madley Matt Sun palette by Kryolan)

(3rd Nov 2014)

Look no.2

Elizabethan elements: red lips and pale skin

Contemporary elements: heart shaped contouring that goes from the eyes, down the cheek bones, eyebrows and bottom lashes

Products I used to achieve this look:

Contouring  and Eyeshadow - Blush Muave

Eyebrows - 101 (Blusher Palette -5 Matt Classic by Kryolan)

Eyelashes - fake lashes + black mascara, bottom + white mascara top lashes

Lips - LC008

(3rd Nov 2014)

Look no.3

Elizabethan elements: red lips, pale skin, red cheeks no eyebrows and white lashes

Contemporary element: contouring and a bit of eyeshadow

Products used to achieve this look: 

Contouring and Cheeks - Youth Red (Blusher Palette -5 Matt Classic by Kryolan)

Eyes - Bronzing Agais (Glamour Glow Essence by Kryolan) + white mascara

Lips - LC008 + Loose Powder

(7th Nov 2014)

Look no.4

Elizabethan elements: pale skin, red lips, rosy cheeks and no eyebrows

Contemporary elements: contouring, big lashes and eyeshadow

Products used to achieve this look:

Contouring - Glamour Tan (Glamour Glow Essence by Kryolan)

Cheeks - TO (Blusher Palette -5 Matt Classic by Kryolan)

Eyes - Blush Peach (Glamour Glow Essence by Kryolan) + fake eyelashes; top lashes and black mascara

Lips - Lc008, LC010 + LC142

(7th Nov 2014)

Look no.5

Elizabethan elements: pale skin, lips, rosy cheeks, white lashes

Contemporary elements: eyeshadow, eyebrows and contouring

Contouring - Bronzing Agais

Cheeks and Lips - Youth Red

Eyes - Vintage (Illamasqua Neutral Palette) + white mascara

Eyebrows - Wolf (Illamasqua Neutral Palette)

(7th Nov 2014)

After showing these face charts to Kat Vogart, she said that the red lip is an element that most people are thinking of using in their final look. She suggested I try to change the colours. Also, she mentioned that my design should be more of a mixture of Queen Elizabeth and Rihanna, than it is now. This feedback was helpful.

http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/12326/29624/New-Collections/Viva-Glam-Rihanna/Viva-Glam/Viva-Glam-Rihanna-Lipstick/index.tmpl (date: Nov 25th 2014)

Who are the New Elizabethans?

Rihanna's style is very edgy, revealing and sexy, and you never know what she will wear next. To be honest, I am not her biggest fan and I don't like her at all, but then again, many people disliked Elizabeth. It is not that I don't like Rihanna as a person, I've never even met her, it's the image of her that tabloids, magazines, tv and internet have created. Back in the days they didn't have magazines and tv but Elizabeth made sure that there were many portraits of her, instead. 
The outfits in the images below are showing why I think Rihanna is a New Elizabethan... 

The first outfit is a black suit. A puffed up blazer by Dolce & Gabanna (Fall 2009 collection) and a ruffle white shirt. That instantly reminded me of the big sleeves that Queen Elizabeth I used to wear as well as her favourite colours. Rihanna showed up wearing this outfit to the MET Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (2009).

Rihanna (2009)
Photographer: Janet Mayer

(source: http://fametastic.co.uk/archive/20090505/16282/photos-rihanna-at-the-costume-institute-gala-2009/ -date Nov 9th 2014)

The second image is from the photoshoot for Sessions@AOL in Los Angeles (February 2010). Again, she is wearing a black and white outfit that is tight at the waist. Big sleeves with ruffles go all the way down from her shourders to her wrists.

Rihanna (2010)

photographer: Joseph Llanes

(source: http://www.pixmule.com/aol-sessions-photoshoot-february-rihanna-photo-images/ -date Nov 9th 2014)

http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/people/rihanna
http://www.ultimate-rihanna.com/gallery/index.php?cat=7
http://www.justjared.com/photo-gallery/1898681/rihanna-met-costume-institute-gala-2009-08/
http://www.lipstickalley.com/showthread.php?t=752767&page=4
(all information found on Nov 9th 2014)